Buenos Aires was a very European city; probably the most of any South American city (architecture, population, vibe). It's also the 8th or 9th largest city in the world, I think. Needless to say, there were your typical elements of cosmopolitan city living -- traffic, pollution, noise and a huge disparity in income levels.
There were many streets that I visited that were almost identical to what I don't like about streets like Broadway or 7th Avenue in NY. Luckily, however, I stayed at a hotel in Palermo, which is a neighborhood in the NW part of town that stands apart from downtown (Microcentro). It's really leafy, relatively quiet and local. Tons of cafes, bars, restaurants and boutiques. It's got a very bohemian, artsy vibe. I've got to think that Buenos Aires is one of the design capitals of the world. The furniture design and fashion were truly impressive.
Although the subway was fairly easy to navigate, I did tons of walking here and came across a few neighborhoods similar to Palermo that were easily my favorite - La Recoleta and Las Canitas. Lots of open park space and plazas, tree lined streets and boulevards and French-influenced architecture. It seemed as if locals were always spending their free time lounging about the open spaces regardless of the time of day. Many of the sights in BA included the usual old government buildings, churches and what not and I could have done without them. The one that was somewhat interesting, if not morbid, was the Recoleta Cemetery that houses over 6,500 mausoleums. It was built in the late 1800s, I think. The main attraction is Eva Peron's resting spot.
My first day in BA was the most memorable for reasons good and not so good. I attended a cooking class of sorts in a chef's home. Turned out the chef (Argentine) and his wife (San Diego) had just returned from living in SF for 2 years (which also helped in the language barrier department). They have just started an underground restaurant of sorts in their home. They can accommodate up to 15 folks 3 nights a week and the seasonal, healthy menu changes every week. They don't advertise and rely purely on word of mouth. One night a week, they also hold a cooking class for up to 4 people. Fortunately, there was only one other dude on the night I was there, so the vibe was more like cooking with friends than sitting through a class or something. The meal was good (not great), but the experience was killer! [For those that care, we made vegetarian chorizo, saffron risotto and stuffed portobellos.]
After dinner, I was off to see an underground tango show (yep, the theme of the night was definitely, ahem, subterranean) on the outskirts of Palermo. I pulled up in a taxi (more on this later) and there was an unmarked steel door behind which there was a long passage way which led to a large, high-ceilinged space that resembled a mini airplane hangar. The bohemian orchestra was made up of 12 members playing various instruments - 4 playing the accordion - and one singing with a change of costume every few numbers (gas mask, wig, skirt, etc). I can't imagine any of the players were older than 30 or so. Lots of trippy lights, dry ice/smoke and a decidedly Mission vibe. No dancing that night, but the orchestra was really the main event anyway.
So, the taxi ride over to the show was, how shall I say, in-te-res-ting. From the moment I saw the driver's face, I knew I shouldn't have gotten into the car, but it was already 11p and I was running late to the show. His eyes were glazed over and it was hard to figure out what he *wasn't* on at the time. We stopped at a stop sign and as we're waiting for a girl to cross the street, he says "Hola" to her (she couldn't have been more than 21 or so). This was more than just a friendly, "Hola". The tone was devilish at best. Anyway, turns out the girl's boyfriend was waiting on the other side of the street and saw/heard the cab driver. The boyfriend is as wrecked as the driver and has a sea of zits that would probably rival that of Manuel Noriega. The driver gets out of the car and the two start yelling at each other. As the driver gets back into the car and belts up, the boyfriend comes over to my side of the car, starts twirling his sneakers in the air like a friggin mad man, hitting the car repeatedly and threatening to unleash them on the driver. He's not having much luck with the tied-together sneakers, so he takes his open palm and jams it into the window on my side of the car unleashing a blizzard of glass all over me - hair, face, clothes, arms, shoes, socks, etc (I'm still finding glass in my stuff). Finally, the driver (with great reaction timing, of course) decides to speed away, but doesn't stop for what seemed like 10 mins after he finally realizes what happened in the back. We get out and clear the glass out of the car and off of my body. Yep, I know you're wondering why I didn't just ditch that cab. I had *no* clue where I was and the cab situation in BA is one that everyone warns you about, so I just decided to stick with it. Needless to say, my first beer couldn't come quick enough at the show.
Buenos Aires Pics --
Click HereAfter 3 days in BA, I flew to Iguazu Falls in the NE part of the country. I stayed one night on the Brazil side and one night on the Argentine side. The falls are smack in the middle of a subtropical jungle, so the humidity was a pretty intense change after a totally pleasant spell of mid-70s, Spring temperature in BA. Igauzu Falls are made up of over 270 waterfalls that have formed over 120 million years. It's truly one of the wonders of the world. Seeing the sheer force of the falls up close is awesome, but I was ready for my next destination after half a day.
Iguazu Pics --
Click HereAfter 2 days at the falls (and by this point, saddled with a nasty bout of the flu), I flew to Mendoza, which was by far the prettiest of the three stops. It's the home of the majority of Argentina's wine production, specifically, Malbec. I stayed in a tiny (6 rooms) hotel that sits on a small vineyard in the middle of nowhere. Frankly, on hindsight, I should have added at least one if not two more days to my stay there and skipped my trip to Iguazu Falls altogether.
I spent one full day wine tasting at both big and boutique-sized wineries. There are of course many geographic similarities to California's Wine Country, but Mendoza takes the cake because of the awesome Andes mountain range (you'll see many snow-capped shots in the album) as its stunning backdrop. The next day was a 9 hour trip up into the Andes; we made it to within 5 km of the Chilean border. The highlight was Aconcagua, the highest peak in not only South America, but in the Western Hemisphere at over 22,800 ft. The rugged scenery was out of this world, but the flu coupled with some altitude sickness essentially knocked me into a daze for most of the day. Mendoza is an outdoor-lovers paradise and I didn't even get to scratch the surface. [A quick side note: Argentina has free health care. For everyone. Including tourists. I got a free doctor's visit to the hotel and the meds only cost $10. Gotta love it. University and post-grad are free, too.]
Mendoza Pics --
Click HereNew gig starts manana. Shocking how quickly the 6 week "sabbatical" evaporated. Definitely not ready to head back to the cube farm just yet.
Labels: 2007, aires, america, argentina, buenos, falls, iguazu, mendoza, south